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Did You Know...
My edges are wavy!
Sometimes the borders are too long. To correct this, you must
measure vertically through the center of the quilt, and then cut the two side borders that exact same length. Pin the center, the ends and in between and ease the edges of the quilt to fit. Follow the same procedure for the horizontal measurement. This keeps your quilt square. However, the edges can still get wavy if you apply your binding incorrectly. As you sew the binding onto the quilt, pull the loose end of the binding snug. This will ease in some of the fullness at the edge of the quilt.
When I am shopping and see some fabric I love, how much should I buy?
It's difficult to know how much to buy when you don't have a project in mind. When I really love a fabric - which is often - I usually get three yards. That way I have enough to place some in the body of the quilt and enough for the borders.
Do You Know the Signs of a Needle Gone Bad?:
There are visible signs when your sewing machine needle is damaged or bent. Change your needle immediately when you...
- Notice that your stitches look "crooked" and not straight.
- - Hear a popping sound while you're quilting. That 'popping' is the
- sound of a dull needle.
- - Hit a pin. (Hey, we're not supposed to be sewing over pins anyway,
- right?) You have probably damaged the point and possibly bent
- the needle. While you won't always be able to see the damage to
- the needle with your naked eye, you will see the change in stitch
- quality.
- - Start a new project. It's just plain easy to remember...new project,
- new needle.
- - Have been piecing or quilting for 6 to 8 hours. A needle dulls with
- use.
Tips for Purchasing Sewing Machine Needles:
The #1 tip is to buy plenty of sewing machine needles in a variety of sizes and types when they are on sale. There are many reasons to change a needle.
- Have a large and varied supply on hand so that you're more willing
to change the needle when problems crop up.
- Don't buy cheap, no-name-brands of needles. It just isn't worth the
hassle. Schmetz is my needle of choice. Your sewing machine
instruction manual will tell you what kind to use if you aren't sure.
- Joann's, Wal-Mart, etc., don't usually carry the smaller needle sizes.
- I like to use a 60/8 or 70/10 Schmetz Microtex Sharp for silk and
monofilament threads. Locally, your neighborhood quilt store or
sewing machine dealer is the place to shop for these. If you don't
see them, make sure the shop owner knows you're looking.
...and one last, but important, piece of “needle know-how”. Just because the needle is new from the package, doesn't mean it's perfect!
Keep Track of All Those Needles:
Sometimes during a quilt project, you'll switch to a different thread and need to use a different needle. Use this handy trick to keep these "used, but still good" needles separated from the brand new ones still in the package.
Take a good ol’ tomato pin cushion. With a
Sharpie pen, write in each section the size
and type of the various sewing machine
needles that you frequently use.
Time to change your needle? Remove the
"used, but still good" needle from your
machine and insert it into its proper place in
the pin cushion. When you remove a needle
from the pin cushion to use in your sewing
machine, put a decorative pin in its place. That way with just a look, you'll be able to tell which needle is in your machine.
Threading the Needle:
Needles are made by a stamping process. This causes the eye to be a bit "larger" on one side, so turn that needle around and thread will go through easier.
Rotary Care:
To keep your rotary cutter sharp, mark the date of the blade change with masking tape on the flat part of the cutter. When your rotary cutter starts skipping, take it apart and turn the blade, add a drop of sewing machine oil and you get double the life on your blades.
Cutting Mat Cleanup:
Clean your rotary cutting mat with a napped lint-removal brush. This prevents dark or light lint from depositing on your next cut of fabric.
Stop Unraveling Threads:
Cut strips from inexpensive vinyl/cling wrap and wrap it around the spool and bobbin to secure the thread.
How to Control Your Thread When Sewing:
To make thread behave for applique or regular sewing, just run your needle and thread through a fresh, folded dryer sheet. It's magic! No more tangles, or those tiny, nasty little knots, either.
Cleaning Your Machines:
If you don't know how to remove your bobbin case and clean the area underneath or behind it, please ask your dealer to show you how to do it. Not cleaning this area regularly can lead to several problems and unnecessary service charges. Make sure you change your needles frequently. Many people are still under the misconception that you only need to change your needle if it breaks. Needles do wear out, get damaged, or may be defective. For optimum sewing, change them frequently!
Thread for Applique on Bobbin Spools:
Don't want to drag a lot of spools around for applique? Take a little time and fill some bobbins on your sewing machine and keep them in the bobbin keeper. Purchase the plastic bobbins (one ones with flat sides) and put your silk thread on them. The bobbin buddies that are available hold the thread so it won't unwind. Write the color number of the thread on the sides with a permanent marker. That way you'll know which color your were using and can refill it again with the same thread.
Borders:
When applying borders, measuring and pinning is essential. Do not just use a long piece and cut it off after sewing. Measure the length you need (in the center of the quilt) and then cut the exact length. Pin all the way to the end for sewing. This will result in less seam and fabric distortion.
Acid-Free Storage:
The safest technique for storing a quilt that is not being displayed is to wrap the quilt in acid-free tissue and place it into an archival storage box. Support any folded areas with rolls of tissue to prevent creases. Remove from the box every few months and refold so the creases aren't always in the same areas of the quilt.
The Fudge Factor:
Are you trying to machine piece two quilt pieces that don't quite match up? As long as the difference is not more than 1/8", try this technique: Place a pin at each end of the seam and stitch with the larger piece facing the feed dogs of the sewing machine. This will "ease" the extra bit of fabric. Practice first on a scrap fabric to get a feel for the technique.
Keep Those Pins Short & Fine:
If you prefer to pin baste your applique pieces, be sure to get some fine, short pins. The fine pins will also leave holes in the fabric that are much less noticeable.
Use Your Rotary Cutter While Standing:
The safest way to use a rotary blade is standing up at your cutting table. You need to be able to look straight down to ensure that your blade is firmly placed against the ruler. Leaning forward from a sitting position is not as steady and could lead to uneven cuts or a slice into your hand holding your ruler steady.
Fabric Backing:
Standard Mattress Dimensions:
Knowing standard mattress sizes will help you design and make a quilt that fits a bed just right. The dimensions below are the actual mattress dimensions, not the quilt size;
Standard Mattress Sizes
Mattress Type Dimension in Inches
Crib 28" x 52"
Twin/Single 39" x 75"
Full/Double 54" x 75"
Long Twin 39" x 80"
Queen 60" x 80"
King 76" x 80"
California King 72" x 84"
Mattress Depths
There are no standard mattress depths. Some mattresses are 9-10 inches deep, but many pillow top mattresses measure 15-16 inches in depth or more. Box springs, pedistals, and other bed components can make the mattress even higher.
If you're making a quilt for yourself, make sure to include the mattress size and add for the length (top of the mattress to the floor) according to how long you want the quilt to be from the floor.
Quilt Size and Backing Yardage Chart:
Note: Most machine quilters require the backing fabric to be at least 3-4" all around larger than the quilt top.
Quilt Size |
Dimensions |
Backing |
2 1/2"
Binding |
Assembly Diagram |
TWIN |
63" x 87" |
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DOUBLE |
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QUEEN |
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KING | |
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